Wednesday, September 28, 2016

Buyer's Home Inspections by SitePro - Inspections With Your Interests In Mind

After saving and dreaming for months and years, you’ve finally found the home of your dreams. It has just the right d├ęcor, space, bedrooms and amenities you and your family need right now. You’ve checked out the schools. You’ve checked out the neighborhood. You‘ve even timed the drive to and from work.

BUT, have you taken seriously the importance of having a BUYER’S HOME INSPECTION done on your home? One where YOUR interests are in mind? Probably not.

Perhaps your neighbor has mentioned a home inspector or your REALTOR has referred their favorite home inspector? Can you be assured that this home inspector will take the time not only to perform a thorough and detailed inspection, but walk through the entire home explaining defects mentioned in the report as well as maintenance items? Will this inspector explain how systems work in a fun and educational manner so you know and feel comfortable with your home? After all, this is YOUR home and you want to know as much as you can about it!

Finally, when you are nearing the end of the inspection, will the inspector be scrambling to get you a report onsite or will he review his notes and prepare one of the most easily understood and professional reports in the industry within 12-24 hours? After all, it is your home.

Do you want a rushed inspection and report with possible errors or one that has YOUR best interests in mind? SitePro always has your interests in mind! After all, the largest part of our business is from happy past clients who have gone through the home buying process just like you.

So buy that home and schedule your inspection today knowing you have a trusted inspection company with your interests in mind!

Call 850-934-6800 To Schedule Your Inspection Today!!

Sunday, September 25, 2016

How to Patch a Hole in Wood Trim

This Old House general contractor Tom Silva helps a homeowner patch a large hole in painted baseboard molding. (See below for a shopping list, tools, and steps.)

Shopping List for How to Patch a Hole in Wood Trim: 
- ½-inch-thick poplar, cut to size to serve as a patch
- Two 1x2s and two 1x4 spacer blocks, used to make a routing jig
- Instant-bond glue (cyanoacrylate) and aerosol accelerator, for gluing together the jig
- 120-grit abrasive disks, for random-orbit sander
- 2-inch (6d) finishing nails, to secure jig to wood trim
- Carpenter’s glue, for adhering the new wood patch 
- Cloth, to wipe away excess glue and sanding dust

Tools for How to Patch a Hole in Wood Trim:
- Canvas drop cloth, to protect floor
- Table saw and miter saw, for cutting wood parts to size
- Random-orbit sander, to sand jig and patch
- Hammer
- Trim router and ½-inch-diameter pattern-cutting bit, for cutting the hole for the patch
- Wet/dry vac, to collect routing dust
- ¾-inch wood chisel, for squaring up the corners of the routed recess

Steps for How to Patch a Hole in Wood Trim:
1. Cover the floor near the repair with a canvas drop cloth. 
2. Cut a ½-inch-thick poplar patch slightly larger than the hole in the wood trim.
3. Next, make a routing jig out of two 1x2s and two 1x4 blocks. Be sure the poplar wood patch fits into the rectangular hole in the middle of the jig.
4. Assemble the jig with instant-bond glue. Apply a bead of glue to one surface, then spray the mating surface with an aerosol accelerator. 
5. Press and hold the parts together for several seconds until the glue cures.
6. Remove the patch from the center of the jig, then use a random-orbit sander fitted with 120-grit abrasive to sand smooth the front and back of the jig.
7. Hold the jig against the wood trim with its rectangular opening centered over the hole in the trim. Secure the jig with 2-inch finishing nails; leave the nailheads protruding. 
8. Install a ½-inch-diameter-by-1-inch-long pattern-cutting bit into a trim router. Adjust the depth of cut to equal the thickness of the jig plus the thickness of the poplar patch.
9. Turn on the router, then hold it flat against the jig with the bit protruding into the opening. 
10. Slowly move the router in a clockwise direction around the jig. Be sure to keep the bit’s ball-bearing pilot pressed tightly against the inside edge of the jig’s rectangular opening.
11. As you’re routing, have a helper collect the dust with a wet/dry vac.
12. Square up the rounded corners of the routed recess with a hammer and a ¾-inch-wide wood chisel.
13. Use the hammer to yank out the nails holding the jig in place.
14. Apply carpenter’s glue to the routed recess, then press the poplar patch into place. 
15. Very gently tap the wood patch with a hammer until it’s fully seated.
16. Wipe away the excess glue with a damp cloth. 
17. Allow the glue to cure for about 2 hours, then sand the patch flush with the random-orbit sander.
18. Force carpenter’s glue into any gaps you see around the perimeter of the poplar patch. 
19. Wait for the glue to harden, then sand the patch one final time. 
20. Wipe off the sanding dust with a damp cloth, then prime and paint the patch to match the wood trim.

Thursday, September 22, 2016

The Hottest Paint Colors for Fall

Color expert, Sharon Grech shares her top four picks for the hottest fall paint colors to use in your home this season.

Monday, September 19, 2016

Saturday, September 17, 2016

Tuesday, September 13, 2016

Inspecting Fiber Cement Siding

When people hear this term they immediately associate it with Asbestos cement shingles. Many homes were sided with them years ago. Concrete or cement fiber shingles are still available; however, Asbestos is no longer used. New cement fiber siding consists of Portland cement, sand, and cellulose (wood) fibers. There has been a wave of new cement fiber siding products over the last several years. Whether you liked older Asbestos cement shingles or not, there is no denying that they are very hardy (although brittle). I inform my clients that older cement fiber shingles are durable, and can easily be painted. They wear very well and will last a long time with very little maintenance. Because the Asbestos fibers are contained in the shingle, they do not pose a significant risk, unless they are drilled, cut or sanded.

We are now seeing issues and even lawsuits regarding new fiber cement siding. You can see in these pictures some issues associated with cement siding:

The pictures at the top of this article will give you an understanding of how cement siding should be installed. So what are some of the things a home inspector should be looking for and how should you properly advise your client when inspecting cement fiber siding.

· Cement fiber siding should not be installed wet or if it has been saturated. Doing so will cause it to shrink after being nailed in place causing gaps
· A properly installed weather resistive barrier must be installed under siding
· Cement fiber siding should be kept a minimum of 6 inches above grade
· Cement fiber should not be used for fascia or trim pieces
· Joint flashing should be used behind the siding at joints and seams
· It should be nailed between ¾” and 1” below top edge of siding
· The maximum distance lap siding should be installed over studs is 24” OC or directly to a minimum 7/16” thick wood substrate
· Trim should not be installed over the siding. Instead, there should be an appropriate gap and caulk should be used
· There should be a 1 ¼” starter strip installed
· Appropriate corrosion resistant, galvanized, or stainless steel nails and fasteners should be used
· Aluminum fasteners, staples, or clipped head nails should not be used
· Fasteners should be perpendicular and snug to the siding, no air gaps and not countersunk
· Cement fiber siding will warp due to improper nailing
· Flaking of the surface can be due to water exposure or manufacturer issues
· Cement fiber siding will also crack if struck
· Flashing should be installed as necessary, similar to any siding material especially top cap flashing

Wednesday, September 7, 2016

How to Repair a Squealing Shower

Richard Trethewey helps a homeowner silence a shrieking shower. (See below for shopping list, tools, and steps.)

Shopping List for How to Repair a Squealing Shower:
- Mixing-valve cartridge with new seats and springs

Tools List for How to Repair a Squealing Shower:
- Pocketknife, to pry off index from shower valve
- Screwdriver
- Hex-key wrench, for adjusting the valve's safety limit

Steps for How to Repair a Squealing Shower:
1. Turn off the water to the shower at the water main or well pump.
2. Pry off the index from the shower handle with a pocketknife or narrow-blade screwdriver.
3. Unscrew and remove the handle from the shower valve.
4. Use pliers to loosen the retaining nut that secures the mixing-valve cartridge.
5. Pull the cartridge straight out of the valve.
6. Remove the old rubber seats and metal springs from the valve.
7. Install new rubber seats and springs using a Phillips-head screwdriver to guide them into the openings in the valve.
8. Press a new mixing-valve cartridge into the valve, then thread on the retaining nut and tighten with pliers.
9. Push the old handle onto the new cartridge.
10. Turn on the water and test the shower.
11. Remove the handle and use a hex-key wrench to adjust the safety limit on the valve to prevent scalding.
12. If the squealing sound returns, clean or replace the showerhead or tub spout with diverter.

Sunday, September 4, 2016

Rent vs Buy | A Side by Side Comparison

For our comparison we’ll look in the Midwest using average costs to give you a rough idea of what renting or buying might cost you. Also, we’re going with the plan to stay in the area for at least 5 years. That gives us a time frame to work in and compare costs.

Thursday, September 1, 2016

Wood Look Flooring

Want a beautiful, durable floor that looks like wood? Try laminate, engineered wood, vinyl, bamboo — even tile. They’re all available in a wide array of wood looks. Here’s what you need to know about each.